Are you coming down to the south island this summer? Here's what you should know.
Image: Amelia Caddy
The tassie summer climbing trip is an annual pilgrimage for many. The long days and endless options chew you up and spit you out with pulpy hands and a full heart. Here's a few things to know for the 2024-25 season to manage your impact on these wild and wonderful places.
General stuff
Remember to always:
Follow Leave No Trace principles
Respect access requirements on private land - access is a privilege, not a right
Respect cultural heritage closures
Avoid any cliffs with nesting birds
Stick to designated paths and campgrounds
Follow basic climbing etiquette
Please do not share any access information or tag climbing locations on social media
For access advice, check out thesarvo or contact the Climbers Club of Tasmania (CCT) if you have specific questions.
For information on lessening your impact visit the Crag Care Tasmania website.
North Tassie
Image: Nick Hanson
There is currently no climbing allowed on the Dog Wall for cultural heritage reasons, please also avoid standing, walking or hanging out under the wall. Respect these closures, they have been initiated by the Tasmanian climbing community. Shell middens are spread throughout the area and represent living spaces occupied over thousands of years. Extra care should be taken to not impact these. Camping is definitely not allowed in this area.
This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, please respect the historic and spiritual values it represents. Climbs in the area of North Cave are currently closed because of the significant heritage value of the cave. The old descent gully should also be avoided for this reason.
Seasonal closure: The areas extending from Zorro wall to the ramp area (inclusive) are closed from August-December due to Peregrine falcon nesting.
This cliff is still closed pending further cultural assessments.
After many years of closure - a temporary lease agreement has been negotiated between the Georgetown Council & the landowner which allows climbing access. The continuation of this lease is dependent on the respect & self governance of the climbing community as a whole, and certain rules are to be adhered to by all. The entire site remains PRIVATE PROPERTY. Please do the right thing, abide by the seasonal closures listed below, and speak up to any users you encounter who may not be doing so.**
- No overnight stays in vehicles or camping on site
- No fires or fuel stoves
- No animals or pets
- No firewood collection
- No trespassing onto neighbouring paddocks, or interfering with livestock
- No parking along Craigburn Road if carpark is full
- Please use toilet provided as a priority
**Access is currently "tentative", and could be scrapped if we do not respect the handful of site rules and regulations when we visit. Please be mindful of this.
Seasonal Closure - Falcon Crag & The Far Side: both of these areas are closed from August-December due to Peregrine falcon nesting.
Access to Bare Rock is via our local climbers Andy and Alannah’s property. Please respect their privacy and the following requests:
Please shoot Andy a text to let him know you’re coming (0418 883 418) and don’t show up after dark.
Seasonal Closure: Bare Rock campground (on Andy and Alannah’s property) is closed from November 1st until April 15th, to alleviate pressure on the area. This closure includes the composting toilets onsite and removal of the fixed abseil line. Free camping and toilets are located nearby in Fingal town centre.
The road to Andy’s is not council maintained and is paid for by local property owners, including Andy. Please drive slowly to minimise your impact, and contribute $10/car to help maintain the road. An honesty box is located at the campsite. Car-pooling is encouraged.
Camping is currently closed at The Docks at Killekrankie. It is recommended to camp at Jude's place (03 6359 8464) at Killiecrankie Bay and drive 20 minutes to The Docks. Fires on Flinders Island are not permitted at any time.
Seasonal closure: Vamp Buttress, Duck Reach. This buttress is closed from August-December due to Peregrine falcon nesting.
South Tassie
When turning off the Mt Brown track towards the Paradiso cliff, please walk on the rocks as much as possible, and avoid walking on any muddy areas - this contributes to track erosion which is becoming more evident. Camping is tricky on the Tasman Peninsula, but public campgrounds are available at Fortescue Bay. It is often busy so book in advance if you can.
Mad Monkeys and Monkeys Bum
The access instructions to these crags have changed so that the tracks no longer cross private land. Check thesarvo here and here for details.
Access to the Cloudy Bay campsite and cliffs is along the Cloudy Bay beach. To avoid impacting the threatened hooded plovers and other resident shorebirds that nest in the soft sand, time your trip to drive at low tide and stick to the hard sand.
The access road is full of wildlife so drive reasonably slowly (Tasmanian Devils have been included in recent road kill), and slow down further when passing the farmer's white house (to minimise dust). Please don’t camp at or near the carpark (this includes lighting fires), there is no toilet. There is camping and a toilet nearby at the Ye Old Buckland Inn in Buckland. You just have to buy a beer from the pub or donate $5 to camp. Parts of Sand River are dog friendly. However, please keep dogs under effective control, and no dogs are allowed on the private land of Panopticon South.
The land owner of Panopticon South may be undertaking controlled burns. Do not call the fire brigade in these instances or contact the landowner (who wishes to be left alone). All communications are to go through the Climbers Club of Tasmania.
This crag is closed due to access issues through private land.
West Tassie
Image: Alex Hartshorne
The Tyndalls is a sensitive alpine area that has become more popular in recent years. To maintain water quality, poo outside of the camp/cave drainage or better yet take a poo tube or wag bags and pack it out.
Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area
This is a huge area stretching from south-west Tassie up past Cradle Mountain in the north and includes crags like Federation Peak, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne. Flying drones is not allowed in the area or any National Park in Tasmania without a permit. These places are remote and wild - check the weather and plan appropriately.
A free registration system has been put in place for several overnight/multi-day hikes in Tasmania, including Frenchman’s Cap and Federation Peak, to help protect our most remote and sensitive areas. A separate permit for climbers is available for Frenchman’s Cap, which will allow you to stay for six nights rather than just the four nights available to walkers. Visit this page for further info about the climbers’ permit and the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service website for more details about other permits.
Mount Lyell bouldering area
Exercise caution when pulling on or off the Lyell Highway to park. This is an alpine area so follow all leave no trace principles, when possible toilet before or after climbing. If you can’t, follow the poopin guidelines below. Please look after the native plants like the King Billy pines and other native Tasmanian trees. As this area is still being developed some hold cleaning is required but avoid enlarging holds.
Other stuff!
Social media
Parks have noticed many non-climbers starting to use climbers’ tracks and climbing areas, placing extra pressure on the environment. Please do not share access information or tag climbing locations on social media.
Poopin’
Many Tasmanian crags are located in sensitive and wild places. Always try to poop before you leave home. If you’ve really gotta go at the crag, dig a deep hole (20 cm) and pack your TP out in double zippys or whatever works. Always carry a trowel and ziplocks so you won’t be caught out. For rocky or alpine areas (the Boneyard, Paradiso, Star Factory, Tyndalls, Acropolis etc.), bring a poo tube / wag bag and pack it out!
Critters
To look afterout wildlife slow down by at least 20km/hr if driving between dusk and dawn. Just this little change has been shown to have a big impact on reducing roadkill rates.
Stay safe and informed about access and local weather conditions. Gerry's climbing guide and thesarvo are both good places to start when it comes to access and route info.
Have fun out there!
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